Quaglino's

From its inception by Giovanni Quaglino in 1929 to its reinvention by Terence Conran in 1991, Quaglino’s has always been a place to impress and be seen.  OK, so it’s had a few dodgy years in between, but the fact that it’s still around is testament to its loyal followers.  It was given a bit of a nip/tuck earlier this year and, visually at least, it appears to be in rude health.

Walking down the first staircase, one can’t help but be impressed by the bar, which has been given a funky new look.  With live music, a 3am licence and some good cocktails, it’s somewhere I would be happy to spend a night drinking and cavorting with the ladies of Mayfair.  Clearly I’m not the only one, as the bar had a distinctly younger audience and a more fun feel to it than during its former incarnations.

When it comes to making one’s way down to the dining room, there are fewer grander entrances around.  You simply can’t help but feel special as you sweep down the iconic main staircase to the chic and modern restaurant in full swing; those of a shy, retiring disposition need not apply.  

The classic British menu has also been given a makeover, although new head chef Konrad Inghelram has actually taken dishes from the restaurant’s past to move it into the future.  Unfortunately, this area is not quite as convincing as the rest of the restaurant, perhaps because Konrad was taking a week off during our visit.  Quaglino’s cocktail was generously full of plump shellfish with a perfect Marie-Rose sauce; on the other hand, Coquilles St Jacques had been overdone giving the entire dish a dry texture –not great for £15.25.  Mains picked up, with a tasty Chicken pie with porcini mushrooms & leek (although it was way too small for the £13.25 being charged) and a really delicious dish of Herb crusted rack of lamb, boulangere potato & rosemary jus.  Desserts were again hit and miss, with a delicious Bourbon vanilla crème brûlée being offset by a bland Chocolate & pear tart.

In conclusion, the resurrected Quaglino’s dishes were the disappointing ones, whilst the new ones were actually pretty good.  Unfortunately, the cost of the dishes also means that you’ll be paying a high price for looking good at Quaglino’s.

Food: 3/5
Venue: 4/5
Value: 2/5

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Love's profile     Other reviews by Love     Love likes    

The first of the mega restaurants in London, and Conran’s creation has spawned many an imitator and a whole range from Conran himself. Apart from the more serious Orrery, I feel this is still the best of the bunch, now that Pont de La Tour has forgotten how to cook. On the site of a fashionable restaurant from the 1930s, Quaglino’s vast space (350 diners at one sitting can be accommodated) is handsomely decorated, and even many years on retains its stylish feel and manages to fill the tables. As is inevitable with a venture of this size, you may experience some variability in the standard from one meal to the next, but generally things work well. The sometimes harsh press Quaglinos has received seems churlish to me based on the many meals I have eaten here. Here are notes from a meal in late October 2000.

This meal was in the private dining room above the main dining area. A terrine of foie gras and figs was served on toasted brioche with an excellent fig chutney (5/10). This was accompanied by the lovely de Bortoli Noble One 1993. Fruits de mer was more ordinary, with pleasant prawns and crab (3/10), with a reasonable 1996 Sancerre from Roger Cailottes. What was billed as a watercress sorbet actually tasted like lychee sorbet, with a garnish of watercress, and had rather too many ice crystals but good lychee flavour. For main course I had a well timed fillet of sea bream, with nicely cooked crushed new potato with chives, with some superfluous mussels served in their shell, all with a pleasant saffron vinaigrette (5/10). With this was a fine Chianti Classico Reserva Racasoli 1996. For dessert was a competent amaretto panna cotta with poached apricots, accompanied by a pleasant lemon sorbet (3/10). With this was an unusual dessert wine – Moscato Passito di Pantelleria, a rich wine tasting of apricots that was most enjoyable. Coffee was fine (4/10).

Andy's profile     Other reviews by Andy     Andy likes    

I had a date with a guy that took me here. Very nice decor, the staircase evoked a sort of old school glamour feel to it - all I was thinking was that I hoped I didn't trip up whilst walking down in my 4 inch heels! The food was fairly good, the only disappointment was the dessert (go to Eight over Eight - their chocolate cake and green-tea ice-cream was to die for!).

Abida's profile     Other reviews by Abida     Abida likes